So Hi, I’m Alex and this is the start of a series of blog posts documenting the restoration of a vintage road bike, interspersed with pictures of my cat,she’s called CATFACE, this is her. (yes grumpy is her default expression)
Well first of all for this restoration project to get started I’m going to need a frame to restore. So “To eBay” I thought, where I sifted through countless frame and fork sets in various states of decay. Until eventually I came across this lovely little vintage frame covered in what looks like multiple layers of bad paint jobs. It was listed at £20 plus £10 p&p, which unlike a lot of the listings I looked at was p&p reflecting the actual cost of posting a frame! If you’re buying one yourself then really £15 is the absolute upper limit of what it should cost to send (assuming this is in the U.K.) this frame’s £10 p&p was reasonable . After a bit of back and forth negotiating we eventually agreed on £18 and he’ll throw in a seat post.
Below you can see the pictures from the listing. As you can probably tell it looks like it has a bit of a bent drop out, though nothing the awesome power of gas pliers can’t deal with! The forks also may or may not be a bit bent out of shape.
Rear Dropout on the Drive Side had been opened up and the forks were also slightly twisted and the drop out was also opened up on one side.
We simply managed to close the gap in the dropout using extra large adjustable pliers, shielded with folded card to protect the metalwork (although to be honest at this stage there’s nothing to protect) we don’t want any gauge and scores or marks we want to file down any imperfections as we go.
The forks were easily pulled back into shape and balanced perfectly just using hand forces the forward leg was corrected and dropout closed up a touch on the one side.
Next stage, Sanding down…
Continue reading BSA – Aligning Damaged Dropouts, Frame and Forks
Cranks chosen on price, these came in just under £20 with a reasonable ratio to work well against 16 teeth at the rear simple and silver.
Square Taper Bottom Bracket required, I’ll have to wait until I can find something short enough to assemble it, this need something in the range of 68mm X 101mm. Yikes!
Grips, covered with Brown! Handlebar Tape… Cost £3.56 Bargain! China Strikes again…
Cheap as chips but it’ll do the job, and work well with British Racing Green for the frame colour.
noun. associated British Brand Name Reynolds Technology Ltd.
All types of bike steel made by the British company Reynolds are considered very good, as they are specifically designed for bicycles, not other stuff which happens to be cheaper. As the allocated number goes up, generally the sophistication of the alloy goes up, and the bike gets lighter and stronger – and more expensive of course!
- 453 – Manganese/Titanium alloy. Reynolds produced only the 3 main tubes in this alloy and they were single butted.
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4130 noun. American
taken from the AISI 4-digit code system
4130 is a code of the American Iron & Steel Institute and defines the approximate chemical composition of the steel
This is a type of CrMo (chromoly) – the number is a way of defining which metals are added to the steel to make it stronger. The number is globally recognised as a metallurgical type definition, which has strict standards to which the steel must comply.
The “41” denotes a low alloy steel containing nominally 1 percent chromium and 0.2 percent molybdenum (hence the nickname “chromoly”). The “30” denotes a carbon content of 0.30 percent. In addition, as normal constituents of plain carbon and low alloy steels, there will be around 0.2-0.5 percent silicon, 0.5-1.0 percent manganese, and well under 0.1 percent of each of a dozen or so other elements whose presence is unavoidable, in a few cases deliberate, and generally not harmful. The remaining 97-98 percent is iron (Fe).
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4130, chromoly, CrMo, noun., american origin, AISI 4-digit code, Steel, Materials, BMX, Single Speed, Road,